Juanlu Fernández: Tradition, Haute Cuisine, and the Sea of Jerez

Andalusian chef Juanlu Fernández turned the gathering into a journey through the culinary heritage of the south, where tradition, necessity, and haute cuisine go hand in hand. From the high-mountain cuisine to the coast of Jerez, he championed an approach to gastronomy deeply rooted in the region and the seasonality of its produce. Drawing on his experience at restaurants such as Aponiente and his own venture in Jerez de la Frontera, he explained how French techniques and respect for family heritage are integrated into his cuisine without losing authenticity.

Salting, brining, and long curing processes were the common thread running through many of his reflections, emphasizing that preserving fish properly is just as important as knowing how to cook it. Fernández detailed the preparation of the classic Rota-style sea bass dish, a stew in which the sea bass is gently cured in brine and served with a collagen-rich sofrito, similar to Málaga-style gazpachuelo. He also championed the dignity of humble fish such as mackerel and borriquete, provided that catch times, diet, and techniques like ikejime are respected to enhance their quality.

Almadraba tuna took center stage, with dishes ranging from the traditional stew to sashimi and innovative curing methods in sherry casks with coarse salt and aged amontillado. Rounding out the menu are creative cold dishes, such as modern takes on tuna with tomato or Andalusian cold soups clarified with milk and flavored with pink pepper and fermented radish, which encapsulate his vision of a cuisine that looks to the future without sacrificing the flavors of the past.