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Wild and passionate cuisine from the heart of the French Alps
For chef Frédéric Molina, every week is a new season, as he works exclusively with raw materials sourced from around thirty small producers in a fertile 30-kilometre area of lake, forest and mountains.
Together with his wife and partner, Irene Gordejuela, the French chef, who was born in the Pyrenees, runs the Moulin de Lére* in the Chablais region, a beautiful house overlooking an 18th-century mill. With a distinctly vegetarian spirit, it is based on quality products that determine the creation of its dishes on a daily basis. Whenever I travel, I always like to savour the territory and that is what we want to do: offer a different view of what happens in our region, which is bathed by a lake, surrounded by forests and dominated by mountains.
Following these three levels of altitude, he presented three dishes that are very characteristic of his cuisine. The first, a perch from Lake Geneva, "a very traditional dish, usually prepared in the region with fried potatoes. We wanted to give it more possibilities and show off its exquisite flavour and texture by marinating it the way my mother prepares anchovies," Irene explains. She dressed the perch fillets with garlic and wild celery oil, apple vinegar and salt, and sprinkled them with brunoise rhubarb, pike roe and oxalis sprouts.
To represent the undergrowth, he created a beautiful trompe l'oeil with various slices of buttered porcini mushrooms on a mushroom base, with pieces of salted apple and strips of fried shallots to recreate the ochre colours of autumn, and fresh shoots to bring the greenery to life. Finally, he brought the mountain to the plate in the form of a fruit, vegetable and flower salad on a fruit jelly base, which included raspberries, blueberries, wild blackberries and vine peaches, as well as pickled mushrooms, flowers such as carnations and home-grown herbs such as dill and fennel. To complete the colourful dish, he drizzled laurel oil and blackberry juice with honey.
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