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The new Andorran cuisine

Carla Vidal

 

Mountain cuisine, which has always been the traditional cuisine of Andorra, is adapting to the new times, while preserving its essence, with chefs who renew it with respect, as in the case of Alex Kinchella.

At an altitude of 1,900 metres, La Cort del Popaire (Soldeu) is an old borda where chef Alex Kinchella renews traditional Andorran cuisine without losing touch with the land. From a past dedicated to livestock and agriculture, the borda has become the best representative of Andorran cuisine, but in the case of La Cort del Popaire, Kinchella goes further, rethinking tradition and creating a "signature mountain cuisine".

In this way, he creates traditional recipes such as 'trinxat' (based on cabbage, potatoes and bacon), which he does not present as a dish in itself, but rather 'dishes made with trinxat, such as waffles or trinxat gyozas', explains Kinchella. The chef, who was born in the United Kingdom but grew up in Andorra, is clear that "it is essential to use local products in Andorran cuisine, so I use two or three local ingredients in each of my dishes".

Ingredients that range from those found in the forest - "we love to pick mushrooms, wild fruit or cook game" - to those provided by local producers. In this sense, the chef stressed the importance of "establishing a good relationship with them, talking to them, listening to them", because, according to Alex, "this is how we discover treasures such as mead or a nut and herb liqueur that one of our producers gives us and with which we can make sauces or an excellent foie gras".

While Alex Kinchella explained his personal vision of Andorran cuisine, he prepared some of his dishes live with the help of his team, such as versions of trinxat or a mead and 'mató' (cottage cheese) cannelloni.

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