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Søren Selin's interactive cooking

Carla Vidal

 

The two-star chef at Copenhagen's AOC restaurant surprises with three simple but spectacular presentations that involve his guests when the dish arrives at the table.

You could say that Søren Selin is simplicity made sophisticated. Trained in Danish cuisine, he gained experience in some of Europe's finest restaurants and developed his own style, combining the classic with the modern. He now heads the kitchens at the prestigious AOC, which is internationally recognised as the benchmark of Danish haute cuisine. He is undoubtedly a master of the senses, committed to the use of local flora and fauna, the utmost respect for the product and, above all, a very personal way of presenting his proposals, allowing the diner to interact with each dish in one way or another.

I like to serve in a different and original way in the dining room, because I think it gives more value to the raw material. We chefs spend many hours with the tongs trying to make the dish visually perfect, but if you prepare it at the table in a spectacular way, the diner concentrates more on the product and the flavour,' he argued in his presentation. To demonstrate this in a practical way, he created three aesthetic and stimulating dishes.

The first is a surprising onion, roasted in the oven at 200º until it reaches an internal temperature of 8º, which is presented to the diner whole before being sliced crosswise and the core slightly hollowed out. He then filled it with a caramelised onion cream, 5g of Beluga Sevruga caviar and a preparation based on dry wine and elderflower vinegar, champagne yeast and syrup. The idea is to surprise by combining one of the most humble foods in the world with one of the most exclusive," says Søren.

The second presentation was even better than the first: 'Turbot in juniper', made with a piece of turbot cut in the shape of a rib, with 'the bone in the middle to take advantage of the collagen that mixes with the juice of the fish when it is cooked', painted with a glaze made by reducing the turbot stock with its bones, and sprinkled with pepper and ground juniper, which he served on a generous bouquet of fresh juniper leaves tied together, in this case achieving 'the interaction of the diner with our nature'. He finished with a caramelised plum tart with walnut puree and Japanese salted plum puree, with whipped cream infused with almonds from the inside of the plum stone, 'which gives it an exceptional flavour'.

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